When most 20-somethings have a breakout or bad skin reaction they cancel all social engagements and plunge under the duvet feeling miserable.
But 10 years ago, when Sarah Brown woke up covered head-to-toe smothered in angry hives, her life changed forever - and for the better.
Fast-forward to the present day and not only is she heading up her very own organic skincare brand, Pai, but her skin is flawless.
We spoke to her about brewing her first products from a lab in her garage, her commitment to helping women understand their skin and how many organic beauty products aren't really organic at all.
![sarah pai]()
Why did you set up Pai?
In mid 20s, I developed a condition called chronic Urticaria, also known as hives. It came out of nowhere - literally overnight. It was a shock, because I had quite an extreme reaction the rash was over most of my body and it made me pretty miserable. I went to see various dermatologists and found that, like a lot of skin conditions, mine was idiopathic - which means there isn’t a known cause. So unfortunately I was sent away with no real options.
The experience turned me to natural skincare for the very first time. I had to throw away everything I owned from perfume to make-up and skincare products - it all had to go.
It set me on this journey where I had to replace the products I’d thrown away, but it’s more difficult than it seems. It was an interesting journey because the products that I thought would help me, such as ‘hypoallergenic’ products, didn’t help. And that’s because that term means nothing - it’s a made up marketing term. There are no requirements, manufacturers do not need to do anymore testing to call a product hypoallergenic - and I don’t think that’s right.
I also got quite disillusioned. I actually had more issues using natural skincare - which was quite bewildering, because you’d think botanicals would be kind. But there was lots of reason - but the main reason is that there is so much green washing in the industry. It was only when I was doing in-depth research and building ingredients list that I became away of it.
Starting my own skincare brand isn’t something I wanted to do, it’s something I felt absolutely compelled to do.
So what sets Pai apart from other brands?
When I set up the business, I wanted to create products that people could depend on - to rely on to be good to your skin. People often talk about bad hair days, well I wanted to help people with bad skin days - helping through their condition and giving them their confidence back.
There was a practical thing there but help people get trust. I approached this as very very frustrated consumer, there is no integrity there. So many brands claim to be organic, but they are not certified. If you are not certified, you are not organic. It’s simple. It’s mis-selling at best.
I also wanted products that people could love to use. When you have difficult skin your options are dwindled. I kept being suggested products that were cheap, synthetic and medical - all those products remind you that you have rubbish skin. I thought: Why can’t you have beautiful products that make you feel good about your skin? For me it's all about rebuilding confidence.
How did you go about setting it up - from initial idea to developing product and taking it to market?
Very naively. If I was trying to do it now, it would be difficult as legislation has changed a bit.
I converted a garage to made my own products. I had to go right back to basics. I used very simple but very high-quality, organic oils - and they completely transformed my skin. So I started there, I did basic formulas and took a few crafty courses on how to make a lip balm and how to make a cream. They were very elementary lessons in chemistry. I think that if you have an aptitude for cooking, you will for cosmetics. It’s very heat controlled. I loved it - it was a very defining moment for me, I thought: ‘wow I’ve made a cream’.
I spent two years researching ingredients and testing on my own skin. It started as a very basic level - getting friends with difficult skin to test them. It was quite a simple process really, I just took baby steps. Then I launched with six products in 2007. By the end of 2008 I hired a cosmetic chemist who approached me and wanted a placement. She was French and wanted to work in London, he worked for L’Oreal but was keen to work with organic formulation. I took a punt, but I knew my products lacked finesse and we needed stability - and I’m pleased to say she’s still with us today.
We now have three cosmetic chemists - out of a staff of 20. We actually have more chemists than sales people, which is funny. The business has grown, very slowly at first but then we have started to build momentum.
I started with absolutely nothing - and on one hand it was a curse but in other ways I learnt so much, from having to try the ingredients out myself.
I took a real risk, and I didn’t have any fallback. I sometimes worry about brands that launch with half a million in the bank. On one hand I think imagine what I could have done if I had that - but there’s nothing that gets you out of bed quicker than worrying about how you’re going to pay your only member of staff.
It’s been an interesting time. I started in a garage and we’re moving to 25,000sq ft factory next year. It’s a sizeable enterprise and it’s been amazing.
The company seems very home grown can you tell me a bit about that?
My mum chose the name, she’s a New Zealander and Pai means goodness in Māori. The design comes from a friend of my brother’s. He was still at design college when he asked me if he could design our logo.e is brilliant, very interested in natural living and Scandinavian design. He came to me with 60 or 70 doodles or logos and I saw our logo and I knew straight away that it was right for the brand.
Lots of people buy organic food, can you tell me why important to buy organic beauty products - and why so slow to catch up?
Perhaps there is a much more tangible connection between putting food in your mouth and it going into your body.
Most people don’t see their skin as an organ, so they don’t treat it as such or see it from a health perspective. People love a quick fix, that they think they can put one moisturiser and it will solve all of their problems. People don’t think about the bigger picture or realise that you can absorb things through you skin. There is a debate about how much we absorb through skin - I can’t give you a statistic because it depends on ingredient or the compound or the molecule - but a simple way to put it is: hormone or nicotine patches would not work if you didn’t not absorb things through the skin.
We lobby very hard on in coming year or two. You cannot legally use organic labelling on food packaging if not certified by the Soil Association. And because you absorb things through the skin, I can’t see why there isn’t similar regulation in the beauty industry. The problem is a lack of legal definition of organic products - over time the definition is going to be worked out by the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) and that should help. It’s wrong if you say you are 100% and you are not certified, that’s misselling. As a consumer, I was shocked at the level of dishonesty going on.
There’s been a recent shift towards wellness - how has that affected business?
We are an organic brand and very precious about natural ingredients. Maybe 10 years ago, natural organic had green connotation, slightly earthy and not very sophisticated image and some considered us health nuts. And what’s changed I think is that there are lots of high profile, young women and celebrities who have embraced a much cleaner lifestyle - relating to diet, exercise and the mind.
We live very busy lives. Poor diet and stress has very immediate knock-on effects - certainly in London there is a definitely shift in attitudes towards wellbeing being very fashionable. We are modern brand and we have always tried to get people to consider their skin as a whole - we are not saying that this product will fix all of your problems but the ingredients are good for you. People need to learn that if they are drinking fizzy drinks, getting stressed etc - you will not resolve the skin condition.
One of the single things that helped me was understanding my skin. I had dietary diaries, if you are disciplined you see very regular patterns. Once I understood my skin I felt better - my stress went down and I looked better. That’s what I want to give other women.
What was your biggest challenge in setting up your business? And how did you overcome it?
Maintaining manufacturing in house. We came up against almost fierce criticism. People told me I wasn’t an expert so I couldn’t possible do what I did, I found it quite patronising. The best decision I made was to manufacture.
There were two main reasons to do this. When you’re small you produce small amounts so you can maintain profitability. If you’re bigger and you have to buy in 20,000 units - and you’re a small business and you have no distribution set up and nowhere to sell your products, what happens? You’re stuck with inventory and you have to sell it off at discount because it will go off. And that starts to devalue your brand.
I started off manufacturing because with little money it made sense - and I could be profitable immediately. But then I realised that my products were better because they were made in-house.
It saddens me that more companies don’t manufacture. Why wouldn’t you contemplate manufacturing here? We’ve lost that in Britain. Manufacturing is one of the most creative things you can do. Our products are great because of the ingredients we use - how can I get someone else devising the formulas and trust another company with these very high-quality ingredients? They’re very fragile and expensive.
It’s been difficult because we’ve grown fast - 100% year-on-year-on-year and 130% in 2014. You have real growing pains when you’re manufacturing because of the scalability. So it’s a challenge but one that has been satisfying to overcome because it sets us apart. There are a handful of other brands who manufacture, I’m very proud of that.
As a woman in business, have you faced any obstacles relating to your gender?
None whatsoever - we live in a progressive country. There hasn’t been anything.
What advice do you have for other women starting their own business?
Stay focussed - you need need infrastructure. Don’t try to do everything and don’t be afraid to grow in a considered way.
Be prepared for a slog. It’s hard work but success comes from hard work. Be prepared to play a very long game. You have to be tenacious - and do something that you feel passionately about.
Make sure that there is a gap in the market - you have to feel strongly otherwise you won’t keep going.
Describe a typical working week
We are all on one site. People think that’s crazy - because everything is in London and space is at a premium. But we have the best people working here because a lot of people like to work in London.
I tend to be at my desk by 8:30am. I will be in the lab - one to two times per week. At any one time we will be trialling three or four of the latest products, perfecting them or looking at new products. We have to look at how they’ve settled or their stability. Sometimes I go to ingredients shows, I have tried to keep hold of that so I know about new exciting products.
Marketing is my background. So I also do a lot to represent the brand, telling my story etc.
It’s a very varied, busy role but I love it.
How do you manage work/life balance?
I was out for dinner with five university friends, all of whom have majority big jobs. And we were talking about work-life balance and I was surprised to find that I actually see my son the most. I get him up, I drop him off at the childminder in the morning, I don’t feel guilty about looking after him if he is unwell.
When he was very young, I just didn’t travel because I had that choice. I was really worried about how I was going to manage my life, but I have found it so easy. I live five minutes drive or ten minutes walk away, so I’m not spending hours commuting that I could be spending with my child or business.
I’m always in to put my son to bed and see my husband and then I can work in the evening. I honestly don’t mind that, I love what I do. Motherhood is so magical you don’t care that you’re tired. You don’t mind you just do it. I think I didn’t take much time for maternity leave - but when I came back the business benefitted from becoming a mum - it brings patience and perspective that I didn’t have before. So I think motherhood has been brilliant all-round.
Is it important for you to make time for yourself? If so, how do you do it?
Not a lot. I’ll be honest. I’m lucky, I live near Chiswick House. It’s free, it’s a lovely sanctuary in west London. I go once a week, twice a week.
I listen to music, I read, I cook.
We have a free yoga class every Tuesday in the office, it’s free for all staff. I find it as good for the meditative, as well as physical.
How do you give back to the community?
We’ve always done free talks for cancer patients, particularly going through chemotherapy - the skin can change and become damaged and impaired - and it needs soothing and support. And we’re launching some schemes next year to do outreach in a more concerted way next year.
We’re also encouraging young people to start own businesses - to get young people manufacturing and setting up businesses in that space, in this country. There’s nothing like having an idea and creating it yourself.
But 10 years ago, when Sarah Brown woke up covered head-to-toe smothered in angry hives, her life changed forever - and for the better.
Fast-forward to the present day and not only is she heading up her very own organic skincare brand, Pai, but her skin is flawless.
We spoke to her about brewing her first products from a lab in her garage, her commitment to helping women understand their skin and how many organic beauty products aren't really organic at all.
Why did you set up Pai?
In mid 20s, I developed a condition called chronic Urticaria, also known as hives. It came out of nowhere - literally overnight. It was a shock, because I had quite an extreme reaction the rash was over most of my body and it made me pretty miserable. I went to see various dermatologists and found that, like a lot of skin conditions, mine was idiopathic - which means there isn’t a known cause. So unfortunately I was sent away with no real options.
The experience turned me to natural skincare for the very first time. I had to throw away everything I owned from perfume to make-up and skincare products - it all had to go.
It set me on this journey where I had to replace the products I’d thrown away, but it’s more difficult than it seems. It was an interesting journey because the products that I thought would help me, such as ‘hypoallergenic’ products, didn’t help. And that’s because that term means nothing - it’s a made up marketing term. There are no requirements, manufacturers do not need to do anymore testing to call a product hypoallergenic - and I don’t think that’s right.
I also got quite disillusioned. I actually had more issues using natural skincare - which was quite bewildering, because you’d think botanicals would be kind. But there was lots of reason - but the main reason is that there is so much green washing in the industry. It was only when I was doing in-depth research and building ingredients list that I became away of it.
Starting my own skincare brand isn’t something I wanted to do, it’s something I felt absolutely compelled to do.
So what sets Pai apart from other brands?
When I set up the business, I wanted to create products that people could depend on - to rely on to be good to your skin. People often talk about bad hair days, well I wanted to help people with bad skin days - helping through their condition and giving them their confidence back.
There was a practical thing there but help people get trust. I approached this as very very frustrated consumer, there is no integrity there. So many brands claim to be organic, but they are not certified. If you are not certified, you are not organic. It’s simple. It’s mis-selling at best.
I also wanted products that people could love to use. When you have difficult skin your options are dwindled. I kept being suggested products that were cheap, synthetic and medical - all those products remind you that you have rubbish skin. I thought: Why can’t you have beautiful products that make you feel good about your skin? For me it's all about rebuilding confidence.
How did you go about setting it up - from initial idea to developing product and taking it to market?
Very naively. If I was trying to do it now, it would be difficult as legislation has changed a bit.
I converted a garage to made my own products. I had to go right back to basics. I used very simple but very high-quality, organic oils - and they completely transformed my skin. So I started there, I did basic formulas and took a few crafty courses on how to make a lip balm and how to make a cream. They were very elementary lessons in chemistry. I think that if you have an aptitude for cooking, you will for cosmetics. It’s very heat controlled. I loved it - it was a very defining moment for me, I thought: ‘wow I’ve made a cream’.
I spent two years researching ingredients and testing on my own skin. It started as a very basic level - getting friends with difficult skin to test them. It was quite a simple process really, I just took baby steps. Then I launched with six products in 2007. By the end of 2008 I hired a cosmetic chemist who approached me and wanted a placement. She was French and wanted to work in London, he worked for L’Oreal but was keen to work with organic formulation. I took a punt, but I knew my products lacked finesse and we needed stability - and I’m pleased to say she’s still with us today.
We now have three cosmetic chemists - out of a staff of 20. We actually have more chemists than sales people, which is funny. The business has grown, very slowly at first but then we have started to build momentum.
I started with absolutely nothing - and on one hand it was a curse but in other ways I learnt so much, from having to try the ingredients out myself.
I took a real risk, and I didn’t have any fallback. I sometimes worry about brands that launch with half a million in the bank. On one hand I think imagine what I could have done if I had that - but there’s nothing that gets you out of bed quicker than worrying about how you’re going to pay your only member of staff.
It’s been an interesting time. I started in a garage and we’re moving to 25,000sq ft factory next year. It’s a sizeable enterprise and it’s been amazing.
The company seems very home grown can you tell me a bit about that?
My mum chose the name, she’s a New Zealander and Pai means goodness in Māori. The design comes from a friend of my brother’s. He was still at design college when he asked me if he could design our logo.e is brilliant, very interested in natural living and Scandinavian design. He came to me with 60 or 70 doodles or logos and I saw our logo and I knew straight away that it was right for the brand.
Lots of people buy organic food, can you tell me why important to buy organic beauty products - and why so slow to catch up?
Perhaps there is a much more tangible connection between putting food in your mouth and it going into your body.
Most people don’t see their skin as an organ, so they don’t treat it as such or see it from a health perspective. People love a quick fix, that they think they can put one moisturiser and it will solve all of their problems. People don’t think about the bigger picture or realise that you can absorb things through you skin. There is a debate about how much we absorb through skin - I can’t give you a statistic because it depends on ingredient or the compound or the molecule - but a simple way to put it is: hormone or nicotine patches would not work if you didn’t not absorb things through the skin.
We lobby very hard on in coming year or two. You cannot legally use organic labelling on food packaging if not certified by the Soil Association. And because you absorb things through the skin, I can’t see why there isn’t similar regulation in the beauty industry. The problem is a lack of legal definition of organic products - over time the definition is going to be worked out by the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) and that should help. It’s wrong if you say you are 100% and you are not certified, that’s misselling. As a consumer, I was shocked at the level of dishonesty going on.
There’s been a recent shift towards wellness - how has that affected business?
We are an organic brand and very precious about natural ingredients. Maybe 10 years ago, natural organic had green connotation, slightly earthy and not very sophisticated image and some considered us health nuts. And what’s changed I think is that there are lots of high profile, young women and celebrities who have embraced a much cleaner lifestyle - relating to diet, exercise and the mind.
We live very busy lives. Poor diet and stress has very immediate knock-on effects - certainly in London there is a definitely shift in attitudes towards wellbeing being very fashionable. We are modern brand and we have always tried to get people to consider their skin as a whole - we are not saying that this product will fix all of your problems but the ingredients are good for you. People need to learn that if they are drinking fizzy drinks, getting stressed etc - you will not resolve the skin condition.
One of the single things that helped me was understanding my skin. I had dietary diaries, if you are disciplined you see very regular patterns. Once I understood my skin I felt better - my stress went down and I looked better. That’s what I want to give other women.
What was your biggest challenge in setting up your business? And how did you overcome it?
Maintaining manufacturing in house. We came up against almost fierce criticism. People told me I wasn’t an expert so I couldn’t possible do what I did, I found it quite patronising. The best decision I made was to manufacture.
There were two main reasons to do this. When you’re small you produce small amounts so you can maintain profitability. If you’re bigger and you have to buy in 20,000 units - and you’re a small business and you have no distribution set up and nowhere to sell your products, what happens? You’re stuck with inventory and you have to sell it off at discount because it will go off. And that starts to devalue your brand.
I started off manufacturing because with little money it made sense - and I could be profitable immediately. But then I realised that my products were better because they were made in-house.
It saddens me that more companies don’t manufacture. Why wouldn’t you contemplate manufacturing here? We’ve lost that in Britain. Manufacturing is one of the most creative things you can do. Our products are great because of the ingredients we use - how can I get someone else devising the formulas and trust another company with these very high-quality ingredients? They’re very fragile and expensive.
It’s been difficult because we’ve grown fast - 100% year-on-year-on-year and 130% in 2014. You have real growing pains when you’re manufacturing because of the scalability. So it’s a challenge but one that has been satisfying to overcome because it sets us apart. There are a handful of other brands who manufacture, I’m very proud of that.
As a woman in business, have you faced any obstacles relating to your gender?
None whatsoever - we live in a progressive country. There hasn’t been anything.
What advice do you have for other women starting their own business?
Stay focussed - you need need infrastructure. Don’t try to do everything and don’t be afraid to grow in a considered way.
Be prepared for a slog. It’s hard work but success comes from hard work. Be prepared to play a very long game. You have to be tenacious - and do something that you feel passionately about.
Make sure that there is a gap in the market - you have to feel strongly otherwise you won’t keep going.
Describe a typical working week
We are all on one site. People think that’s crazy - because everything is in London and space is at a premium. But we have the best people working here because a lot of people like to work in London.
I tend to be at my desk by 8:30am. I will be in the lab - one to two times per week. At any one time we will be trialling three or four of the latest products, perfecting them or looking at new products. We have to look at how they’ve settled or their stability. Sometimes I go to ingredients shows, I have tried to keep hold of that so I know about new exciting products.
Marketing is my background. So I also do a lot to represent the brand, telling my story etc.
It’s a very varied, busy role but I love it.
How do you manage work/life balance?
I was out for dinner with five university friends, all of whom have majority big jobs. And we were talking about work-life balance and I was surprised to find that I actually see my son the most. I get him up, I drop him off at the childminder in the morning, I don’t feel guilty about looking after him if he is unwell.
When he was very young, I just didn’t travel because I had that choice. I was really worried about how I was going to manage my life, but I have found it so easy. I live five minutes drive or ten minutes walk away, so I’m not spending hours commuting that I could be spending with my child or business.
I’m always in to put my son to bed and see my husband and then I can work in the evening. I honestly don’t mind that, I love what I do. Motherhood is so magical you don’t care that you’re tired. You don’t mind you just do it. I think I didn’t take much time for maternity leave - but when I came back the business benefitted from becoming a mum - it brings patience and perspective that I didn’t have before. So I think motherhood has been brilliant all-round.
Is it important for you to make time for yourself? If so, how do you do it?
Not a lot. I’ll be honest. I’m lucky, I live near Chiswick House. It’s free, it’s a lovely sanctuary in west London. I go once a week, twice a week.
I listen to music, I read, I cook.
We have a free yoga class every Tuesday in the office, it’s free for all staff. I find it as good for the meditative, as well as physical.
How do you give back to the community?
We’ve always done free talks for cancer patients, particularly going through chemotherapy - the skin can change and become damaged and impaired - and it needs soothing and support. And we’re launching some schemes next year to do outreach in a more concerted way next year.
We’re also encouraging young people to start own businesses - to get young people manufacturing and setting up businesses in that space, in this country. There’s nothing like having an idea and creating it yourself.